Journal · The Table

A season wrap-up: some highlights from our chefs

A basket of ripe tomatoes of every colour and shape, picked in the glasshouse
The tomato harvest, August

The clocks have gone back, the glasshouse is nearly bare and the kitchen garden has been put to bed for the winter, which seems as good a moment as any to look back over the year. Our two chefs grow what they cook, so the garden and the kitchen keep the same calendar; what follows is less a report than an album, with a few notes along the way.

Spring arrived, as it does here, in fits and starts. There were hot cross buns for Easter and daffodils on the table, and the sourdough never stopped. The first green things of the year were picked as much for the relief of seeing them as for anything else.

By June the garden had rather got away from us, in the best sense. Peas and purple-podded beans came in by the trayful, the strawberries ripened on their straw, and the chives and alliums put on their annual show. Courgette flowers were picked in the morning and stuffed by lunchtime; the blackcurrants went into everything. One of the chefs' happier experiments was a syrup made from green pine cones, which tastes of the woods in a way that is hard to describe and easy to like.

High summer belonged to the tomatoes. The glasshouse produced them in every colour and shape we had sown, and a good many we had not expected, and for several weeks the baskets came up to the kitchen twice a day. Roasted with thyme and very little else, they needed no help. The peaches on the wall ripened at the same time, which felt like showing off.

Autumn brought the glass gem corn, grown half for the table and half for the sheer pleasure of shucking it, a fine cep from the woods, the first apples from the young trees, and squash ripening on the beds. In the kitchen the puddings came into their own, among them a cake made with blackcurrant leaves that has become something of a house speciality.

None of this happens by itself, and we are grateful to our chefs for a year of good things, and to everyone who helped in the garden. The beds are mulched, the seed catalogues have arrived, and the first order has already gone in. We shall write about next year's garden open days, and what we hope to show you, in the new year.